Reviews
Very often we discuss fragrances that make us swoon, feel desired, wanted, relaxed, confident, seductive. But have you ever tried a fragrance that engendered lust and primal sexual desire?
Yesterday, I think I found a fragrance that did just that for me. I'm talking about Tobacco Tuberose by Anna Zworykina, a very talanted natural perfumer .
I'm a huge tuberose fan in general and love it in any formulation. I have never experienced it together with tobacco. I'm far from being a tobacco fan, ut, boy, did this fragrance change my mind.
It opened up with a delicious burst of violet leaf bitterness, followed by a blended wave of tart tobacco and warm leather. In 10-15 minutes I started noticing very quaint notes of luscious and creamy tuberose that grew stronger and stronger, slowly replacing the dry tobacco scent. The tuberose notes were beautifully backed up with tender, but smoky labdanum. This scent was shamelessly sexual, but not in a cheap and tarty, but a very classy way.
The best way I can describe this fragrance as if you stepped into a 19th century high class Parisian brothel. You open the doors to the reception room and areally smitten with a somewhat stuffy and choking wave of powdered and freshly bathed courtesans laced in corsets sitting with dandy gentleman in tweed suits, having a drink and smoking cigars and enjoying temselves. You also sense the smell of antique furniture leather heated by the flesh touching it. Once your nose gets accustomed to that rather sexual smell, you start to decipher sweet smelling tuberose bouquets carefully placed in pretty vases around the room, addingu to the overall carnal desires. You are left to your own imagination to ponder what's going on behind the closed boudoir doors.
That was a first for me to encounter such a scent, that painted such a vivid picture!
Please share your scents that do something similar to you.
Igor
Tobacco Tuberose (Anna Zworykina) ★★★★
inky machinery
As in the brilliant Twilly d’Hermès, tuberose here subs in for the lavender in a traditionally masculine coumarin context, to excellent effect. Though Zworykina’s stated guiding principle is a perfumery of entirely natural materials, it somehow smells pleasurably of photocopier machines. ts
"Perfumes The Guide 2018" by Luca Turin, Tania Sanchez
I have just received this fragrance after waiting for it to get to me froim Russia. It more than meets my high expectation (based on Luca Turin's comments). The tuberose is a beast, but it is not the spice bomb that Tuberose 3 is. I have not smelled Ford's Tuberose, but I imagine that one being a bit of a spice bomb too. I find the tobacco notes a lot more subtle here than in some of the usual subjects (Josier, Ford,); It is long and lingering. I am not sure it it the most intense note. the tuberose is stronger. but there are lots of florals and incense too and the now nearly mandatory agarwood. But this one does not remind me of any fragrance. It is rare that this happens in scents these days, given the somewhat limited palette of genuinely natural elements. I think most would say this leans feminine but I find it unisex. It is a refined beauty, natural, classy, but not old fashioned or grandmothery. Old Russian perhaps, but in the gentrified sense of Nabokov's family. This house is not well-known in the US. I think those seeking adventurous experiments should sample this or others. For example, Venetian Red does have some initial but quickly passing connection, to Magnificent Secretions--a fragrance that is impossible to ignore--for better or worse. In other. words, Anna Zworykina has quite a range in her work. This is what niches should do--explore the relatively unchartered depths of natural notes blended in powerful and at times challenging ways.
parkemuth